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Anti-wrinkle creams may age skin more rapidly

Dermatology Times Sept, 2000

London -- Scientists are now reporting that anti-wrinkle creams containing alphahydroxy acids may actually cause the skin to age more rapidly, according to an article on ABCNews.com.

The European Commission, the administrative arm of the European Union, is considering placing tough, new limits on anti-wrinkle creams because the AHAs present in the products may actually cause the skin to age more rapidly than without, scientists said.

AHAs claim to exfoliate or rejuvenate the skin by peeling off the outer layers to reveal the fresher skin beneath. They also claim to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, to improve skin texture and ton, and to improve skin condition in general.

However, both European and U.S. scientists are finding the chemicals may actually be causing long-term damage instead.

Recently, the European Commission's Scientific committe on Cosmetic Products made available a number of studies, including research from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, about this issue.

The commission found that the chemicals appear to increase the number of skin cells that are damaged, stimulate reddening, blistering and burning and put users at greater risk of ultraviolet damage from the sun.

"Improper use, too frequent use, and use by those with sensitive skin -- this is where you see the damage," Nick Lowe, M.D., a dermatologist, told ABCNews. "Products using AHAs should be administered in a clinic."

Products with AHAs are marketed as a "natural" way to rejuvenate skin. Alphahydroxy acid ingredients may be listed as:

• * glycolic acid
• * malic acid
• * citric acid
• * glycolic acid + ammonium glycolate
• * alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid
• * alpha-hydroxycaprylic acid
• * hydroxycaprylic acid
• * mixed fruit acid
• * tri-alpha hydroxy fruit acids
• * triple fruit acid
• * sugar cane extract
• * alphahydroxy and botanical complex
• * L-alpha hydroxy acid
• *glycomer in crosslinked fatty acids alpha nutrium (three AHAs)

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